Wednesday, February 22, 2017

Saturday last

I had the pleasant duty of assisting my friend Brian Dickey with his Lovely British O scale layout.
I'll let my pal Trevor Marshall tell you all about it in his blog, http://themodelrailwayshow.com/cn1950s/?p=7843.
He does it far better than I could, but then again he's a professional wordsmith.
From me I'll just share a few pictures with you;




There's something wonderful about British trains.

Saturday, February 4, 2017

Roundhouse roof

Today I managed to check off another annoying task.
I added roofing material to the St Thomas roundhouse.
The annoying part of the task was my own fault. I didn't really think through the consequence of waiting so long to actually apply the roofing material. The end result being that I spent a few hours reaching across the layout to lay the material in place.
Great for stretching the hamstrings though!
I used  Minuteman Scale Models rolled roofing product for the roofing material. The peel and stick aspect made the job much more pleasant and the product comes in a large variety of designer colours. The sheet is cut into scale 3' widths, which meant I had to draw many lines across the roof panels 2'9" apart. Again, a task that was easy enough on the 2 loose roof panels, but the small bits that were built in place were a bit tricky.
But I poked away at it, taking breaks as my back suggested and the task was completed. A little touchup paint as well as gluing the 2 pair of open doors into place and voila!
Smoke jacks are now the next item on the roundhouse list. Maybe next week.



Friday, January 27, 2017

A decision about future YMW HO kits

While not earth shattering, it's important.
Some modelers have had issues and struggles with the phosphor bronze ladder stiles that have been included in past kits. And if the stiles aren't perfectly etched and if the modeler doesn't have the right tools folding those stiles can be a real trial.
So I've decided that all future kits that call for ladders will have brass ladder stiles, like these;
They'll fold far easier and generate far less swearing.
The other part of this, is that I will also be including etched ladder rungs. They're far easier to work with and are being made in a variety of widths.
Far less tedious than clipping the legs off of commercial grabs and less counting for Pierre. (yes that's what it's really about).
We're always looking to improve and do what we can to get more people building models.

Thursday, January 26, 2017

Proof of progress

I've been chipping away at scenicing the yard area in St Thomas.
More ground cover. Some trees. And details in the Car Department area.

Lots more to go, but Rome wasn't burnt in a day!

Trees revisited.

Trees! Those pesky essential scenic elements that can drive us to distraction trying to get convincing looking models. And unless you're modeling the desert, you're going to need a lot of them.
For awhile I thought that the Super Trees from Scenic Express were the answer, but I found that the "trunks" were too thin to represent the size of trees I wanted on the layout.
The Super Trees might be great for background trees, but on a layout as narrow as mine, all trees are foreground trees.
I fiddled briefly with the idea of wire armatures and then coating the resulting "tree" with some form of goop to replicate bark, but that is feeling far too labourious. It may yet come back for certain effects.
Currently my solution is these very nice armatures from Model Builders Supply, they come in a variety of heights and the price in a bulk pack isn't too crazy. The best part of these armatures is that they are molded in 3 dimensions, unlike the Woodland Scenics armatures that are molded flat.
The 6" and 8" are shown here with the "branches" twisted horizontal.
The next step is the application of Poly-Fiber. Tease out little clumps and stick it on the armature.
Simple.
I'm still working through refinements of this part of the process, but you get the idea.
This is secured in place using a matt spray varnish. I just grabbed a spray can from the hardware store. It works great. Far better holding power than hairspray, and easier than Tacky glue or other such stuff.

Once that dries, the tree is sprayed again with the matt varnish and Noch Leafs are sprinkled onto the Poly-Fiber.
Once that dries the trees can be planted.
I have a few refinements in my process to work through and I want to figure out a process for doing what I call,"the dense pack" of tree trunks that I see so much off. In the meantime I'm out of Poly-Fiber, so until I have more tree progress is stalled



Thursday, January 19, 2017

There's a lot of info here

This photo of the Car Department tracks in St Thomas is a wealth of detail information.
While the subject matter of the photo is the remnants of Wabash #2254 following a tragic boiler explosion, for me it's a gold mine for detailing an area of the yard that I'm actively working on right now.
First is all the short bits of track holding spare wheelsets. There a lot of them and note the way the rails are doubled up to gain space by offsetting pairs of wheelsets.
Then there's really narrow gauge track for some kind of work cart. I'd love to see a photo of the cart. And note how the rail joints are not offset.
There's that water supply in the foreground. Simple enough, but it's a detail often overlooked.
Just behind the caboose, we can see the lights on the pole. I do know from other sources that there were 2 of these poles. The 2nd would be to the right of the photographer.
If you look closely you can determine where it's cinders and dirt, and where the weeds and other greenery would be.
Lots of detail info to work with here.
I find that I spend more time looking around the edges and in the back ground of photos than I do at the primary subject matter in railroad photos. There's so much to see and to learn about.

Tuesday, January 17, 2017

Better, wetter, water

Anytime Railroad modelers do any kind of scenery these days, "wet" water is a mainstay item. The surface tension of water has to be defeated to get the water to flow onto and into the scenery materials being secured, in advance of adding the thinned matt medium or white glue.
The usual approach is to add some liquid detergent into the water, or to use "Photoflow" from Kodak. And this approach usually works very well.
But currently I'm using some groundcover products that are proving to be difficult to get the "wet" water to soak into. In particular is the "Light Cinders" from Scenic Express. There's a lot of very fine particles in the "Light Cinders " ballast and that seems to be causing the problem.
But I've found a solution.
I'm adding about 30% by volume of alcohol into the sprayer bottle along with a few drops of detergent.
And man it works gangbusters!
I'm finding that I'm spraying far less water than I used to get the texture materials ready to accept adhesive.
Give it a try!