Sunday, July 30, 2017

Sill Steps for PRR X37 & X38

Today we have a guest posting
Eric Thur has taken one of Yarmouth Model Works sill step designs and applied them to a car we didn't even consider at the time.
Thanks for sharing Eric!


While browsing Yarmouth Model Works HO Photo Etch Stirrup section, I came across YMW-220. This Stirrup set, (sold as a replacement for Tangent’s GSC Tank car RTR Models), can be easily modified to replace Funaro & Camerlengos PRR X37, a, b, X38 kits. Most resin cast Stirrup Steps from kits are fragile and can break easily. Also they are much thicker than prototype Stirrup steps. By cutting one step leg, you can make a prototypical looking Stirrup with the correct looking thickness as well as the strength of metal.

As seen in the photos, from top to bottom:

First, carefully cut the Stirrup part from the sprue (I highly suggest using XURON #440 Photo Etch Scissors). Sand the edge carefully with an emery board till smooth.

Carefully cut off the vertical leg closest to the angled leg (See Photo) the one with the point at the end. Do Not cut the vertical closest to the angled corner support (the one that bends 90 degrees (no point on end).

Don’t try to cut too close to the joint; you can leave a little metal there which can be trimmed with a Xacto blade. Carefully cut downward with the end of the blade to remove excess metal (Do not try to shave the metal off by slicing sideways) you will damage the part.

Next, bend the angled corner brace leg carefully at an angle 90 degrees. Test fit the part to the underbody. You want the outer vertical leg to be as close as possible to the end of the car body so that the angled brace lays flat against the end sill under the grab iron’s inner side. Adjust angle if needed.
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Mark your drill points and drill with a #70 bit.

Check your step is straight and the corner brace fits level with the body end.
Carefully attach with ACC. Check alignment and let dry. Remove any excess ACC if needed.  Paint your model.

Although the YMW-220 is slightly shorter than the original prototype, they give a much cleaner and authentic appearance than the kit parts.

Happy Modeling!

Eric Thur
Little River, SC

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